Essays

Moseying: Locations of Interest

Visit the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute near Fort Davis
February 20, 2008

Each bioregion needs a facility to promote public awareness, appreciation, and concern for the natural and historical diversity. The Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute (CDRI) was created in 1974. In 1978 they purchased 507 acres south of Fort Davis. In 1998 a visitor’s center was erected, now known as the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center and Botanical Gardens. For years Dennie Miller kept the dream alive as the first Executive Director. In 2004 Dr. Cathy Hoyt was hired as Executive Director. Her vision and organizational skills has enabled CDRI to mature into a superlative “must-see” destination for anyone interested in the flora, fauna, and geology of the region. A significant bequest from the estate of renowned biologist Roger Conant in 2005 gave the organization a firm financial position.

Most of the Chihuahuan Desert is in northern Mexico, but it extends north to the Pecos River in Texas, and along the Rio Grande in New Mexico. The lowlands are heat-seared “desolate wastes” (to the casual eye), but the desert is dotted with many “sky islands” or mountain ranges with pine and Douglas fir forests. As a land rich in the history of Jumano and Mescalero Apache and the early Spanish “line of presidios” and huge cattle ranching haciendas is set against a backdrop of an incredibly diverse ecology.

Under Dr. Hoyt’s guidance and the addition of a lively enthusiastic staff the Institute has been developing many new projects. The Chihuahuan Desert Mining Heritage Exhibit gives a visitor an up-close view of how the early mines in the region were constructed. The old cactus garden is now a “pollinator garden” designed to attract the incredible diversity of “bugs.” Staff member Cynthia McAlister embarked on a fascinating examination of the incredible diversity of pollinators in 2006, and hosted a teacher’s workshop on pollinators. A new Interpretative Geological Exhibit is being built on top of the highest hill on the property (Clayton’s Overlook, named after longtime supporter Clayton Williams, Jr.) The botanical garden has been revitalized under the caring hands of head gardener Marc Goff.

This will be the third year for the program, The Earth Rocks!!!, a program designed to promote an interest in the earth sciences. A program for preschool children, “The Critter Club,” introduces the smaller children to the wonders of nature – and CDRI will have a spring break version this year. Education Director James Saunders has also arranged for the CDRI to have a 7-minute program on Marfa Public Radio every Thursday morning.

Despite the involvement of a number of Midlanders as members of the organization, the CDRI is not well known here. When the hot summer comes thudding down on us flatlanders, we often head to the highlands of Fort Davis, Marfa, and Alpine. Several hundred Midland and Odessa families have summer retreats nestled in the “Sierra Madrean forest” (mixed oak and juniper woodlands) of the mountains. Thousands of folks have visited the McDonald Observatory and the Fort Davis National Historical Park. The Gage and Piasano Hotels are favorite weekend destinations, too.

The Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center and Botanical Gardens is a wonderful place to become more aware of the intricacies of the region. When a person immerses himself or herself in learning, he or she will never suffer the pangs and self-destructiveness of boredom. We promote learning about our home bioregion, the Llano Estacado, here at the Sibley Nature Center. Having another bioregion to compare to our home deepens our appreciation of our combined arid lands. We salute the efforts of the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute!

CDRI publishes “The Chihuahuan Desert Discovery.” The most recent issue just arrived in our mailbox. Along with two fascinating stories about pollinators, the volume also included several stories about the Diamond Y Spring Preserve a few miles northwest of Fort Stockton, owned and operated by the The Nature Conservancy (TNC) of Texas. This preserve provides critical habitat for two rare species of desert fishes, five rare plant species, three aquatic snails, a species of amphipod (or scud), and a crayfish (crawdad.)

The Diamond Y Spring Preserve is in the heart of an active oil and gas production area. The producers and the TNC have partnered together well, actively protecting rare flora and fauna. Instead of the armchair environmentalist’s automatic rejection of the petroleum industry as an “environmental disaster,” West Texans know things “can be done right!” Prominent Pecos County rancher M.R. Gonzalez (the previous owner) continued to run cattle on the land, even after the Conservancy’s purchase. Last year the preserve performed a “prescribed fire,” along with mechanical and chemical treatment of salt cedar at the preserve, thereby increasing the livestock carrying capacity of the property, as well as increasing the volume of water in its wetlands. TNC’s interim director of its West Texas Program, John Karges, is also on the board of directors of the CDRI, has been the pointman for much of the research and restoration done at Diamond Y.

West Texas is lucky to have Dr. Hoyt and Mr. Karges. There are, of course, many more great biologists and interpreters in the region, celebrating the varied landscapes of West Texas. I would like to tip my hat to these two individuals, and thank them for their valued advice and their kindnesses to me over the years. As the Sibley Nature Center continues to serve the Llano Estacado and constructs our new developments to our trails and building, I hope both of them will come here often so more Midlanders will get to know them.