Essays

Moseying: Outdoor Recreation Activities

Living History Christmas at Fort Concho
December 18, 2002

History is big business. Deborah and I attended this year’s “Christmas at the Fort,” at Fort Concho in San Angelo. The parade grounds were lined with tents, teepees and even a log cabin on a trailer. Each one provided shelter for vendors of 19th century replicas of guns, tools, and period clothing. In some instances, the prices seemed outrageous but, as Deborah pointed out, “You can’t buy this sort of stuff at any other time, and it is all handmade and one-of-a-kind.” One furrier had coonskin hats for $150 and several Canadian wolf hides for $400 and up.

In the barracks and officers’ quarters were vendors similar to those found at flea markets, swap meets, old settler’s days, and trade days but the quality and uniqueness of the products outshone the average vendors at those other venues. At least a dozen vendors were touting various food products that reflect the changing tastes of the time. How about chipotle-raspberry chutney with cream cheese? Talk about nouveau-Texas cuisine – mighty tasty, for sure!

It was extremely crowded in the barracks and officer’s quarters. A person had to walk at the speed of everybody else, meaning take two steps and stare for a minute, then take three steps. For some reason I was out of sync and kept bumping into folks. We had to keep going outside to cool off in the chilly wind since the buildings were overheated from the overcrowding.

Historical reenactors were everywhere. Men and women dressed in period army gear or as cowboys and settlers in 1880’s costumes were not only all over the fort compound, but were also touring the shops and restaurants along the historical section of Concho Street. At set times they performed various routines on the parade grounds. The loudest performance was enacted by the artillery company. We were getting a snack at the food court right behind the cannons and when four of them fired simultaneously we nearly jumped out of our skins.

Historical reenactors are serious about their subject. For example, they may portray someone illiterate, rude, and obnoxious such as a buffalo hunter who has just arrived in town. They study everything about the character type, not only the clothing. The clothing is as authentic as can be re-created, as are their weapons. Visitors at living history events should talk to the re-enactors. “No question is stupid,” I overheard one tell a lady who had asked a question that made other audience members hoot with laughter. Living history buffs want to share their knowledge.

The reenactors read everything they can find. Some of the reenactors have spent as much as $50,000 getting every detail right. If it were not for historical reenactors, some folks would never be exposed to nuances of life in the 1800’s. It is easier to understand long-gone times when seeing artifacts being used and handled by knowledgeable people.

Following the spirit of the day, I had to make a trip to the Cactus Book Store which specializes in “Texana.” Old county historical association books, privately printed memoirs, folklore collections, books of newspaper column collections, and other source material fill the little shop. I spent thirty minutes browsing and blew $50 on three books and wish I had the money to spend $1,000.

I had selected one of Ross McSwain’s collections of his “Out Yonder” columns from the San Angelo newspaper when the author himself wandered in to chat with owner, Felton Cochran, about a program that morning at the fort. Needless to say, I now have an autographed copy. McSwain is one of my heroes. He has been writing his “Out Yonder” column for thirty years. His stories of west Texas history, folklore, and interesting people should be required reading in schools throughout the region.

We spent an hour visiting the shops on Concho Street. San Angelo somehow managed to preserve a block of buildings built as early as 1884. Dick Hagelstein, a San Angelo native, says it was preserved because it was “the bad side of town, and the city fathers pretended the bars and bordellos weren’t there, not until after World War II.” Speaking of bordellos, someday Deborah and I will have to visit the Bordello Museum, located in the middle of the block on Concho Street. The Concho Street district is right across the Concho River from Fort Concho, the Railroad Museum, and the Fine Arts Museum.

San Angelo is such a pretty town. Deborah and I drove up the streets along the Middle Concho River and its series of parks, admiring all the old and spacious homes. Have you ever seen a mesquite tree over thirty feet tall, with a trunk as big around as two fifty-gallon drums? I had to back up a ways so Deborah could fully take in the sight.

We have roamed San Angelo several times in the last couple of years, and every time is not long enough. Within thirty miles of town are more places on our list to visit. This coming Saturday, the Winter Solstice, we plan to go see the pictographs at Paint Rock which features solar phenomena similar to that of Stonehenge and other European neolithic sites. Also on the list are the farm implement and farm life museum in Eola, the ghost towns of Concho and Stacy, the Hummer House Bed and Breakfast near Christoval, Fort McKavett, and the Toenail Trail.

A hundred miles east of Midland life is different. Towns are closer, and big ranches do not hide away as much of the landscape from the day tripper. County roads beckon every few miles. It is amazing how a little extra rain makes a big difference. Not only are there trees and running water and hills, but rain also affects human interaction with the landscape. It is so much easier to love one’s home when it is pretty.

We took the long way back to Midland traveling through Robert Lee to see the six acres of Christmas lights at Bryan’s Barn. Every night from the first of December until the 31st of December folks drive from Lubbock, Abilene, San Angelo, Midland, and Odessa to see the result of one couple’s imagination. The Christmas displays at Bryan’s Barn are kitschy, garish, camp, and utterly delightful.